Entry to Manual Mode

This post is for beginners to camera manual mode.

Manual Mode Allows Operator Control of in-Camera Features:

Time for discussing the manual mode in your camera, assuming it is equipped with such.  Manual mode is really not too difficult to understand when one first looks at the basic elements of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.  Understanding these fundamentals first will prepare you for shooting in manual mood.

Why is Manual Mode Important?

Many people purchase high-end cameras with plans of using it as a compact camera (point and shoot), thinking it will score much better pictures.  Sure, the resolution is improved, however, the operator is the main determining factor in improving the quality of pictures.  Location, composition, perspective, focus, and exposure are all determined by the operator.  These are the main ingredients toward achieving great pictures.  Composition, in simpler terms, is how elements of the scene are aesthetically arranged.  Perspective is the way the scene is visualized via different camera angles, heights, distances, depth of field, all to bring out particular attention to certain details.

These elements will be discussed further in upcoming posts.  Learning to have control of more distinct elements of the photo itself is what is key as well as knowing when and how to use that control appropriately.  Though lots practice, you will gradually become good at this.

First Component: Aperture:

What is Aperture?

First let’s discuss aperture (measured by f-stop numbers on your camera).  This is the opening in the lens and allows light to pass through the camera to the sensor.  A wide aperture (larger opening and smaller number, such as f 2.8) will allow more light to enter.  A wide aperture also causes depth of field (area in the picture of front to back focus) to be smaller.  A smaller aperture (higher f-stop number and thus smaller opening) conversely, will allow less light.  However, a small aperture will increase depth of field (DOF).  Think of aperture like the pupil of your eye.  In darker lit environments your pupils dilate to allow more light in and in brighter light your pupils contract (to not let too much light in).

Why Controlling Aperture is Important

You control aperture in your camera for 2 main reasons.  The first reason is for adjusting depth of field (DOF).  Example: f16 is a smaller aperture then f4, therefore the DOF is great.

The second reason is adjusting how much light enters the camera.  More light enters the camera with larger apertures.  Less light enters the camera using smaller apertures.  Example: f4 allows more light to enter the camera sensor than f16 because the f4 aperture is much larger.

Using Aperture for a Smaller Depth of Field (DOF)

An example using a smaller DOF is a portrait of a person or macrophotography image of a flower.  The goal here is to ensure at least the subject face/eyes or distinct flower parts are in focus.  This brings more attention to the subject.  Softer, out of focus foreground or background elements can add a nice, aesthetically pleasing softness, or “bokeh.”

Using Aperture for a Large Depth of Field (DOF)

An Example needing more DOF could be a sweeping landscape scene, like a mountain or sunset view.  Choose a higher f-stop number (smaller aperture).  However, very high aperture settings on your camera can invite the inherent issue of diffraction.  Thus, while your image may still be in focus it can become less sharp and therefore lose some edge detail.  While you might correct some diffraction error in post-processing, some sharpness is still lost.  It may be quite noticeable or barely noticeable at all.  The only way to truly learn more about this is to practice shooting at different aperture settings and evaluating for diffraction on a monitor display.  To read more about lens diffraction please check out this great article on photographylife.com.

Moving on to ISO, the Second Component:

One of the examples above uses a smaller aperture for greater DOF, allowing less light to enter the camera.  What if though, there is inadequate light entering the camera sensor, causing the image to be underexposed?  Well, you have several options here.  You could open the aperture up more (larger aperture, lower/smaller f-stop number).  Or you may adjust the two other principal variables: shutter speed and/or ISO.

Understanding ISO

So, let’s now discuss ISO (International Organization of Standardization, which develops standard sensitivity ratings for camera sensors). ISO simply means how sensitive the camera sensor is to light.  This is something you can control in manual mode.  A low ISO, commonly at 100, is often for brighter, daylight conditions in which there is generally enough light that the signal going into the camera need not to be amplified much.  However, in lower light conditions, such as at dusk, the image on the sensor can appear quite dark.  One way to improve the brightness level is by increasing the ISO-the camera sensitivity to light-and thereby amplifying the light signal.

Noise with ISO

Some cameras can reach ISO limits of 25,600 (such as the Sony alpha 6000, and others can reach higher.  One thing to caution about is that you can get noise, a grainy appearance in your photos, at higher ISO numbers.  Some of this depends on the quality of the camera on how good the sensor is.  A better sensor may handle higher ISO values better than others.  But, at certain ISO levels, noise will appear.  It may not show up easily until you enlarge your picture on your computer screen.   If your camera has an electronic viewfinder, then zooming in on a photo may also reveal noise.

Noise can thus limit your print size.  As you enlarge the image you amplify the noise signal from the picture.  What is an acceptable level is up to you and the viewer.  So, for now, practice taking pictures in different lighting environments and trying different ISO levels and seeing the effect it has.  Most photographers learn with their camera what ISO ranges that they are comfortable using for a particular scene.

Next Component: Shutter Speed

Next, we discuss shutter speed.   A slower shutter speed will increase the time interval that light enters and records on the camera sensor and will therefore make your image brighter.  A faster shutter speed will do the opposite, decreasing the duration of light entering the camera.  A fast shutter speed, such as 1/500-1/000th of a second can freeze action, such as water droplets or a bird’s wings in flight, and therefore show more detail rather than blur from subject motion with slower shutter speeds.   Slower shutter speed can blur action and may be usefor for tranquil or abstract effects.

Practice different shutter speeds over moving water, or people walking, or cars moving, and you will quickly realize how different speeds produce various results.  Soon, you will get an idea what helps you and what doesn’t for your desired photogenic effect.  If you’re photographing a stationary object without any movement and you have your camera mounted on a sturdy tripod, then you could use a much longer shutter speed, even several seconds or more, to allow more light for a correct exposure if your image was dark to begin with.

Applying Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO Together:

Example 1:

let’s say I am outside on a sunny day and want to freeze droplets of water in a cascade.  This requires a fast shutter speed.  If my aperture selection is f9 for fairly good depth of field and good overall sharpness, and my ISO on 100, I would probably start my shutter speed rather fast.  Assume I choose a shutter speed 1/750th of a second and it is too dark.  Then, I could try slowing down my shutter speed to say, 1/500th of a second (1/500s) or slower.  Let’s say 1/300s allows the right exposure, but now the droplets are blurry and not frozen in time.  I could then increase my ISO to allow a brighter image while also increasing my shutter speed to the point the droplets appear well defined.

What else could I do?

Or I may leave my ISO at 100 and open up my aperture more (to a lower f-stop number) like f 5.6 to allow in more light.  If I am still happy with my depth of field, then it may be another good method of increasing my exposure.  I might also increase my ISO and open my aperture more to increase exposure.  Applying both options may prevent me from using to high of ISO that could cause excessive noise.

Example 2:

Let’s say I’m doing portrait photography outside, and therefore I want a soft background which requires a small depth of field.  This helps bring more attention to the main subject.  I would start with a lower f-stop number (probably the lowest setting for my lens).   If you are in aperture priority mode then you set the aperture and then the camera will automatically select a shutter speed and ISO.  If, however the lighting is dim the camera will select longer shutter speeds and higher ISO ranges to allow for correct exposure.  Flash photography and reflectors may be needed to help in portrait photography in poor lighting, but that is for another discussion.  

 I might then start with a low ISO and a shutter speed fast enough   If my ISO becomes too high for the right exposure, then I would lower my shutter speed to the lowest level that allows optimal brightness and droplet clarity.   If it is still a little too dark, then all is probably fine, I can add some brightness back in post-processing.

Closures:

In Summary, it is very important to understand the basic elements of manual mode: Aperture, ISO, and Shutter Speed.  After placing your camera in manual mode, take off the auto ISO and try different ISO settings while playing around with different apertures and shutter speeds.  This will help you put it all together seeing the whole effect these elements play in your photos.  Over time, you will know if you need to adjust, one, two, or all three elements to get your desired effect.

Other modes that are semimanual:

After practicing with all three elements together there are a few semimanual modes to experiment with.  Try shutter priority mode (you choose shutter speed) and watch how the camera automatically chooses ISO and aperture for you.  Or try aperture priority mode (you choose aperture) and watch how the camera chooses ISO and shutter speed for you.

Of course, in each of the modes you can turn off auto ISO, set it to a desired level, and the camera will only change shutter speed or aperture.  This depends on which other semimanual mode you chose-aperture priority or shutter priority.  And, if the automatic adjustments in those modes are too dark or bright then you can use your exposure compensation feature (refer to your camera manual).

In many situations it is fine to use shutter priority mode or aperture mode.  But many complex scenes you desire to capture will need full manual mode where you will control all three elements.

Thanks for reading, and I hope it is helpful for those who need it.  Feel free to post some comments below.  Comment below if there are other elements about manual mode you would like to learn more about.  Don’t forget to Subscribe and check out Blue Ridge Mountains Gallery.